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The Diamond 4 C's

The 4 C's - carat, color, cut, and clarity - are the characteristics that determine a diamond's rarity and value - and as a result, it's price. Like snowflakes, no two diamonds are alike, although they may sometimes look identical to the naked eye. The 4 C's, and the many ways in which they can be combined, are the key to understanding why two diamonds and their worth.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Don't be afraid to use your eyes and trust your heart in selecting the diamond that speaks most to you.

  • Carat
    Refers to the weight of the diamond

Carat is the most impactful of the 4 C's because it refers to the weight, and therefore the size, of the diamond. Diamonds are often referred to using "points" - one carat is divided into 100 points. Therefore, a diamond weighing 50 points is half a carat; 25 points a quarter carat, and so on. Larger diamonds appear more brilliant than smaller ones because they allow more light to be reflected.

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  • Color
    Refers to the degree to which a diamond is colorless

While most diamonds appear white, virtually all display barely perceptible tints of color. The color of a diamond is described on a letter scale beginning with D (colorless) and moving through the alphabet to Z. Color is the most subjective of the 4 C's, as the degree of colorlessness is not easily discernable to the untrained eye.

To give you a feel for the colors we have prepared a table below:

Color:

Description:

D

Pure White - the most prized color

E

Exceptional white - colorless group

F

Excellent white - colorless group

G

Good white - colorless group

H

White - colorless group

I

Slightly tinted white/ white when viewed from top

J

Slightly tinted white/ commercial white

K

Tinted white/ still acceptable white when mounted

L

Tinted white/ needs yellow setting to look its best

M

Slightly yellowish/Tinted color-champagne

N

Slightly yellowish/Tinted color-champagne

O-R

Yellowish/Tinted color

S-Z

Yellow/Tinted color

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  • Clarity
    Refers to the presence of inclusions in a diamond

Clarity refers to the presence of inclusions, or natural birthmarks, in a diamond. Almost all diamonds contain small traces of non-crystallized carbon, which is the element from which they were formed. Inclusions are natural identifying characteristics such as minerals or fractures, appearing while diamonds are formed in the earth. They may look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers.

Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection, known as clarity, which was established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The clarity scale, ranging from F (Flawless) to Included (I), is based on the visibility of inclusions at a magnification of 10x.

The greater a diamond's clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is—and the higher it is on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.

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  • Cut
    Refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond

Nature determines so much about a diamond, but it takes a master cutter to reveal the stone’s true brilliance, fire and ultimate beauty.

Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire, thereby placing well-cut diamonds higher on the Diamond Quality Pyramid than deep or shallow-cut diamonds. Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak light through the side or bottom, resulting in less brilliance and ultimately, value.

Cut also refers to shape—round, square, pear, or heart for example. Since a round diamond is symmetrical and capable of reflecting nearly all the light that enters, it is the most brilliant of all diamond shapes and follows specific proportional guidelines. Ask a jeweler to find out more about these guidelines.

Non-round shapes, also known as “fancy shapes,” will have their own guidelines to be considered well-cut.

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Diamond Shapes:
Round DiamondRound Brilliant: The most common style of cutting both diamonds and colored stones. The standard round brilliant consists of 57 facets; 1 table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets  16 upper-girdle facets on the crown; 8 pavilion facets, 16 lower girdle facets; and usually a culet on the pavilion. Modifications of the round brilliant include such fancy shapes as the marquise, half moon, pear shape and many others.

Pear Shape DiamondPear:  A variation of the Brilliant cut, combining the Round and Marquise cuts, with 58 facets to only 56 facets (when the pavilion facets at the head and tail are eliminated). Shoulders should have a gently but distinctly rounded arch.  Common length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.50-1.75.  

Oval Shape DiamondOval:  A brilliant style of cutting very similar to a Round except it is elliptical. It was invented by Lazare Kaplan in the early 1960s.  Oval brilliant usually has 56 or 57 facets.  Beware of uneven or high shoulders (they should have a gently but distinctly rounded arch).  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.30-1.65.

Marquise Shape DiamondMarquise: This shape has a boat shaped girdle with 57 facets. The shape and placement of the facets is of the brilliant type.  The name "Marquise" came from a legend of the Marquise of Pompadour that the Sun King wanted a Diamond to be polished into the shape of the mouth of the Marquise.  Look for uneven "wings" or undefined points.  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.75-2.25.

Emerald Cut DiamondEmerald: A form of step cutting. It is usually rectangular but sometimes may be square, in which case it is known as a square emerald cut. It has rows (steps) of elongated facets on the crown and pavilion, parallel to the girdle, and with corner facets. The number of rows of elongated facets may vary, although the usual number is three on the crown and three on the pavilion.  Inclusions are slightly more visible in "step-cut" shapes relative to "brilliant styles.  Look for too narrow or missing corners.  The beveled corners protect the stone and make it easier to set.  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.30-1.70.

 Princess Cut Diamond Princess (also the patented Quadrillion): Is a relatively new shape and generally has 70 to 76 facets (no culet).  Normally it is close to a square shape (+ or - 10%), but may come in elongated versions.  Watch out for girdles which are extremely thin and thus prone to chipping.  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.00-1.10.

 Radiant Cut Diamond Radiant: Rectangular or square stone with cut corners. The original patented cut has 70 facets but it is readily available in modified versions with 62 to 70 facets.  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.20-1.50 for the rectangular stones.

 Heart Shape DiamondHeart: Look for uneven or flat "wings" or too shallow cleft. Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 0.90-1.10.
 

 Trillion DiamondTrillion (or: Trilliant,  trielle): Popular choice for side-diamonds to enhance center diamond.  Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 0.90-1.10.

Cushion: Evolved from the 'Old Mine Cut' that was developed before the turn of the century. It is square to rectangular cut with rounded corners and 58 facets and is characteristically with large facets, depth, and an open cutlet (the tip on the bottom of the diamond).

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